The Best Sierra Ridges
Mount Starr (12,835’)
2nd Class
Located in Rock Creek Canyon, Mount Starr is both a great trail run and very easy ridge climb. While the ridge itself is a bit broad and less defined than a classic ridge, you can access it from a number of points making it a good entry level route.
Mount Starr is detailed in Sierra Trail Runs : A Guide to the Eastside
Mount Lamarck (13,417’)
2nd Class
A full value kind of day that combines a fun, long trail run with an easy ridge climb, all in the dramatic landscape of Lamarck Col above the lake filled Darwin Canyon.
The peak itself can be done as a looping traverse by doing the south ridge up, from Lamarck Col, and the east ridge (go as far as you like before veering off south) down and back to the trail. This one includes superb summit views into the Darwin Canyon while Lamarck Col itself is a great trail run on its own.
Pipsqueak Spire : Southeast Ridge
2nd/3rd Class
More of a mountain route, this one is a good trail run to a lot of talus and scrambling. Pipsqueak is the perfect alternative for those wanting to recon Bear Creek Spire before commiting to the NE Ridge.
Best started from Cox Col, just north of Bear Creek Spire, Pipsqueak is best done as an out and back. If you want to actually summit, the final moves are about 5.4.
Reverse your line of ascent to descend. However, it is possible to descend off the top heading north and then east back to Dade Lake, but this descent requires good decision making to avoid getting cliffed out just when you think you are down.
No Goode, Goode Traverse (13,085’)
3rd Class
Another classic in Sierra Trail Runs : A Guide to the Eastside, this is a fantastic day on a much longer ridge than the previous routes. Starting at South Lake, the route begins with the very popular Bishop Pass run. At the pass, you hop on the ridge to the west, and follow it to Mount No Goode before turning north and scrambling 2nd and 3rd class to the summit of Mount Goode. A short talus section leads east off the summit before turning into a fun, kitty litter descent to Saddlerock Lake where you can rejoin the Bishop Pass Trail.
Candlelight Traverse (12,077’)
3rd Class
An interesting route coming into popularity in recent years thanks to a scenic, slabby 3rd class route bookended by good trail running.
Beginning at the Whitney Portal, run the South Fork Trail to the Lone Pine Lake turn (5km). From there, leave the trail and head up the talus field to the imposing wall, aiming for a diagnolling weakness angling up and east starting at the 3185 meter mark. There, you’ll scramble up a short gulley that turns into a ramp all the way to the North Ridge of Candlelight Peak. A helmet is advised as the ramp is exposed to any rock fall.
Once on the ridge, staying just left on slabs is typically easier but requires wandering to find the best line. The ridge itself is full of dropoffs and deadends.
From the summit, a small descent leads to a col and another short climb. From the top of the second climb, a sandy ramp allows a very fast descent to the Meysan Lake Trail (bring gaiters). Follow the Meysan Lake Trail to the Whitney Portal.
Dragon Peak : South Ridge to Mt. Gould Traverse (12,995’)
3rd Class+
From Onion Valley Trailhead, follow the Golden Trout Lake trail turnoff, and when you reach the meadow, you’ll split onto the North Spur Golden Trout Lake trail and continue to the unnamed lake at the base of Dragon Peak. Above the lake, climb through talus aiming for the low pass.
From the pass, navigate rocky terrain to just below the summit where you’ll collide with steeper rock and the final slab to the top. The 3rd Class+ rating comes from an exposed traverse on a clean wall for the final section to reach Dragon Peak. Careful footwork required.
From the summit, reverse your line back to the pass, but continue south up talus to a lumpy top that can be traversed on its south side. Reach a broad col where you’ll find a good trail to Mt. Gould. Take the southeast ridge off Gould to a use trail that descends to Kearsarge Pass, and a smooth, fast trail to return to the trailhead.
Mt. Russell : East Ridge (14,094’)
3rd Class
The definitive 3rd class Sierra ridge with perfect rock, great views, an all around interesting and beautiful line, and big time exposure. The Classic Classic.
Starting at the Whitney Portal, follow the North Fork of Lone Pine Creek to Upper Boyscout Lake where a use trail leads north to Mount Carillon. To avoid a long, loose and sandy climb, this ascent is best done in the early summer on compact snow. From the Russell-Carillon Col, gain the East Ridge of Russell and primarily stay right on the crest to the summit. There’s a bit of on and off to the north side, but the best line of ascent is mostly on the ridge where you’ll find superb 3rd class, golden granite.
To descend, reverse the route from the summit to the notch that accesses the south gulley. Descend talus and scree to a trail, cross the Whitney Russell Col and run/hike out the North Fork of Lone Pine Creek Trail.
Bear Creek Spire : Northeast Ridge (13,726’)
5.4-ish
Peter Croft calls it the best 4th class ridge in the Sierra. And while we’d agree with that, not many agree with the 4th class rating. The route steepens as you gain elevation until the final 100 meters where you are faced with 5th class options. The best rock and line of movement is found on the ridge itself, but it’s also where the most difficulty is. Shifting left seems to result in easier terrain whenever things get too spicy. Climbing off the summit block requires some cautious 5th(?) class downclimbing. We carried rock shoes and were glad we had them.
Overall, this is a stellar Sierra day with a beautiful trail run in and out, just the right amount of talus hopping, and golden Sierra granite. Time it right in the early summer and snowfields offer a fast ride down.
Mt. Conness : North Ridge (12,590’)
5.6
Mt. Conness is located in Yosemite National Park on the north end of Tuolumne Meadows. Its south face is a massive, clean wall, and the North ridge is unarguably one of the best ridges in the Sierra for both its quality and aesthetic.
From Saddlebag Lake, getting to the start of the ridge alone makes for a beautiful hike/run. Once on the ridge the rock is solid and the line of ascent fairly obvious until the notch.
Nailing the right line is important so this route is truly best done by experienced Sierra ridge climbers if it’s to be done in “running” style. The real climbing comes in the form of a 5.6 downclimb to the notch – technical downclimbing is typically more awkward than going up, so extra respect for this route is encouraged. After the downclimb comes some exposed 4th and easy 5th slab climbing to the summit that might feel a lot more difficult with running shoes on.
From the top, a trail leads down and east to a wide open sandy plateau. Don’t lose the trail as you descend the messy scree and talus back to the forest.